Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Tuesday..Our Last Day in Xiamen

We got up this morning and packed our bags. Once again we broke out the scale to make sure no one bag was over 44lbs. I needed to get some more cash (Yuan), so I could tip the driver, Abbey (our local guide) and Lina, since she was leaving us today. Remember we are staying at an Asian hotel (read "Chinese Hotel"). Of course, I found that they could not exchange money for me and they said I needed to find a bank. Finding a bank wasn't the problem, explaining to the teller who likely did not speak English that I wanted to exchange money was the problem. I figured I would set off to find an ATM. My first hazards are described in my previous posting under "More Advice for Pedestrians." I did find an ATM at China Construction Bank. In fact, there was a whole bunch. The first one I tried took my card, all the instructions were in Chinese. I managed to type in my PIN (I guessed at what it was asking for). It thought about it for a really long time...then I got worried that it was going to keep my card...how do I get help with that! It actually just gave me an error in the long run. The machine I tried had signs around it in English and a big VISA sign on it. I tried the machine next to it...all signs in Chinese. I guessed my way through the first few screens, then presto, up game English buttons and I was home free. Its funny how something as simple as getting money from an ATM is such a situation can make you so proud of yourself.

I got back to our Asian breakfast at the hotel. I was disappointed that they had even slimmer pickings...I wound up with an over easy egg (I think), some potatoes and a roll. The girls had tang and watermelon.

We schlepped the bags downstairs and checked out (which in China takes about 20 minutes, they go up and check your room (remove the listening devices...just kidding Melody), finish the paperwork and then get you on your way.

Our first stop was the "Gold Coast". It was up the Easter side of Xiamen Island (Xiamen is an Island by the way). It was absolutely beautiful. It was the Boca Raton of China. Once again, as far as the eye could see was new high rise development. It overlooked the sea, and had a promenade up and down in each direction with no end in sight. Along this boulevard where bronze statues of marathon runners. They were very cool. There are 99 (we think). Lina told us there were 100. Then we read a sign that said the international Olympic committee took 2 to go to their headquarters for display (that leaves 97). And Abbey said one was stolen. So we figure the real number is between 96 and 100. Unfortunately, it was another hazy day and you couldn't see too far. But it was breezy and pleasant and the air smelled clean.

After spending some time on the boulevard, and getting a very interesting history lesson from Lina on how Hong Kong and Macau ended up under foreign leadership and Taiwan ended up separate, we headed to Jimei school.
Jimei school was built by the "Rubber King" of China (OK, I named him that). Mr. Chen JingXian and his older brother Mr. Chen Jiageng. They were born in Singapore and expanded the family business. They ended up figuring that you could alternate planting of pineapple and rubber trees and get a good harvest. So they made a fortune in rubber and pineapples.. The brains behind the business was JingXian (the younger brother). He died young. His older brother was very philanthropic and he came into mainland China in Xiamen and founded Xiamen University and Jimei school (a private boarding school). He (they, actually) became national heroes. The Jiemi Village is the actual private school and then a museum and monuments to Mr. Chen Jiageng (who died in 1961). We found it very interesting to read the propaganda about him in the museum. There are many contradictions that we have observed in our conversations with our various guides and what we have read and what we were taught about history. It all becomes very interesting. They were big followers of Doctor Sun Zhongsan who is considered the founder of modern day China. The last emperor left the Forbidden City in 1919. Doctor Sun Zhongsan was behind the movement to get rid of the feudal system and bring in a system that was based on the capitalist system of the US. Bottom line, seems to me the Chen brothers were capitalists, but I don't know this history. Through a series of events and civil war (which was disrupted for a brief period fighting the Japanese who invaded), Mao Tsung ended up as Chairman of China. Mao is communist. The museum showed what a supporter Chen was of Mao (gave him LOTS of money), and even wrote the US president to stop supporting Chiang Kai-shek. The museum talked about how Chen fought against the imperialists and how they helped destroy his business.. all very interesting. It is interesting to read this, compare it to what we are taught in school and what Chinese children are taught...and wonder what the real facts are. In any case, we found the museum, his tomb and the memorials as well as the school all very interesting. In the final analysis, he and his brother did great things for China and furthering education.

Another lesson from Lina. We observed that the top of Chen Jiageng's tomb looks like a big green turtle shell. She explained that the turtle (for the old people) is a sign for longevity (I was thinking its a little late to be putting that sign on your tomb). She said, however, that it is not considered so for young couples. She explained that green relates to a man wearing a green hat (not sure how we got from green to men's green hats but we did). A man wearing a green hat means his wife is cheating on him (and he may or may not know it). So if you have a buddy and you know is wife is messing around you refer to your buddy as a green hat. Also, don't ever give a turtle or turtle figurine to a Chinese couple as a wedding gift. It means (at least to the man) you are a schmuck and your wife will cheat on you..this marriage is doomed. So to be safe...never give turtles as wedding gifts (not sure where turtle doves fall in the permissible category on this one...I'll have to check with Lina).

On way out we passed "Floyd's Barber Shop." Apparently, business was slow.
You'll see a picture of me holding Maggie. If you look at the bottom of the blog, you'll see me holding her when she was an infant. The picture of this trip is me standing in the same spot I stood 13 years ago when we went to kill time at Jimei Village after we adopted her. We had the 11 other families with us. This is where we bought the original Maggie pearls from the little girls at the school.


The tall tower that you see is a monument that was erected in 1929 (I think). It commemorates the "birth" of the new China. I was a little confused on the details. Chen relationship with Mao had something to do with this. It is a beautiful monument that depicts scenes from the history of China. It is surrounded by a wall that has mosaics of all of the birds and agriculture across all of China.

The building at the top of the steps is the High School building of Jimei School.
After Jimei, we had to head to the airport. We got checked in OK. At this point we had to say good bye to Abbey. What a sweet young woman. She is so smart and so gracious and independent. We gave her a big hug and we were off...I think she also had a really good time in the two days we spent together. We proceed to our gate. Then the very sad time came and we had to say good bye to Lina. What a great person she is. She made our trip, we could not have asked for a better guide and companion. Again, another wonderful young woman, well educated, independent, industrious and a just a truly nice human being. We had many interesting discussions..and it is nice to see Lina and the other young ladies so proud of their hometowns and their country...and they should be. But there really is a disconnect as we talk about freedom...and the ability to grasp true freedom. Lina told us about how Chinese people don't move ...they can't (they register with the government at a certain location and certain status/profession). They can't travel to other countries unless their government allows them to (interestingly, Lina is under the impression that the reason Chinese people were not allowed to travel to the US, and why they can't travel to Hong Kong, etc. is that the receiving country will not allow them. In reality, it is the Chinese government saying you can't go. Here's the part that is hard to comprehend. I can't imagine living in a place where the government tells me I can't go somewhere or do something. Now granted, they may advise against it (like going to Afghanistan), and you may not be issued a Visa by the receiving country. But our government isn't controlling where we can travel and where we can live. For these young girls, that is very normal. And further, they believe they have a very paternalistic government who watches out for their best interests.. it is a very different perspective. But Lina, Abbey, Liam and Sherri are all proof that you can live a very happy life under this system. And I think it will remain happy as long as they don't truly discover what they are really missing...I wish them all a life time of joy and happiness.



We had an uneventful ride to GuangZhou and met Simon, our new local guide. I did not recognize anything when I arrived...it was an immense airport that easily rivals O'Hare. We left the airport and got on a new 6 lane super highway. I was thinking I must have really been preoccupied because I don't remember any of this from last time. It turns out, 4 years ago they closed the old airport and opened this one. This high way we were riding on is less than 5 years old...and when we got down town, we rode on an elevated highway which goes from one end of town to the other. It was built 4 years ago and took 10 months.

I'm telling you...they are building whole new cities..these people are getting a voracious appetite to buy and there cities all have 10MM plus people in them!! We all better start learning Mandarin.

1 comment:

Papa and Nana said...

Hi. I am really enjoying your blog. I can't wait till you get home with the rest of the pictures and your stories. I love you all Dad/Papa

Maggie and Dad 1996

Maggie and Dad 1996
Maggie in 1996. "I'm a US Citizen!"